Hiking the beach between Xai-Xai and Tofo; etc.

Terblanche created the topic: Hiking the beach between Xai-Xai and Tofo; etc.

  • Posts: 2

Hi Mike

I've done a fair bit of research through your very helpful forums (and elsewhere), and particularly liked the way you dealt with negative perspectives of the crossing from Tanzania to Mozambique. I'm planning a bicycle ride from Dar (I've been in Southern Tanzania before, but on public transport) to Pemba, and I'd like to hit the Mozambican side March-April. I'm hoping that it would be possible to do a lot of dhow hopping past obviously swamped and cyclone-hit areas. Is this possible, (a)y with a bicycle; and (b) during the rainy season? (I'm banking on more spectacular, rugged conditions.)

I'm also planning an excursion to southern Mozambique October-November, but hoping to inter alia walk the 250 odd km from Xai-Xai to Tofo via the beach and lagoons.

I've got thirty years of regular hiking of the 240km South African wild coast, several times a year, behind me; mostly sleep in a tent, but also very comfortably move from village to village, finding local (non-commercial) houses to sleep at; and can easily do 40km a day (but will aim at 10Km in Mozambique); so high fitness and self-reliance levels.

I notice a distinct lack of rivers (and thus possibly water?) on Google Earth. Given your own past experiences, would this be a feasible hike, with a tent? I travel light - 7kg excl. food.

A final question: do you have Guest Houses (of the low-budget type that dominates Malawi and Tanzania) in Moz towns?

Thanks
dre

#10138

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mozman replied the topic: Hiking the beach between Xai-Xai and Tofo; etc.

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Hi

In 1992 i cycled and used boats Beira to Dar es Salaam and beyond. On the coast of Moz the road is now good tarmac from Mocimboa da Praia south pretty much all the way to Caia.

The rainy season is an unpredictable time in Moz and if you try to the coastal tracks and footpaths, flooding river mouths will block your way. Now that there is reliable public transport the dhow taxis do not run regularly and the fishing dhows mostly go out and return to port so not much dhow traffic for long distances down the coast. To charter a dhow is expensive at about $100 per day.

So you will have to decide on your options once in Moz.

For the walk Xai Xai to Tofo, yes no big rivers and the villages are often a km or two from the beach. The local fishermen know where to get water, but as there are so many lodges dotting this route i would get water from them.

Go well. The rural Moz people are very friendly so you should have a great experience.

Mike

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Terblanche replied the topic: Hiking the beach between Xai-Xai and Tofo; etc.

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Mike,
Thank you very much for your response, it's all quite encouraging. Pity (for me) about the reduced dhow traffic: time moves.
I'll bug you again with queries closer to the time, if you don't mind: there's surprisingly little on the web. I did Lake Nyassa on the Tanzanian side two years ago, by foot and by local boats, and just had to do it - there was absolutely nothing on the web. But it was both interesting and challenging.
dre

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