The Winds of Niassa

For the marinheiros (sailors) of Lago Niassa (Lake Malawi), a thorough understanding of the language of the lake winds can mean the difference between calm and calamity: the ‘Vuma’ comes from the north at storm strength, ripping off the roofs of houses on its way. ‘Muela’ winds from the south capsize dhows and bring malaria, while ‘Lichinga’ can come from either the north or the south, bringing heavy rains in its wake. And that large undulating cloud? This is the ‘Vumi’, a plague of flying insects, collected and cooked by the lake people.