Lilongwe to Pemba

torres replied the topic: Re: Lilongwe to Pemba

  • Posts: 16

Mike. thanks for al the information, i ll try this route
Besides, i see that its a Fly from Harare to Beira. There a Bus or train from Beira to Pemba ? or only a Flight?

thank you

#9197

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mozman replied the topic: Re: Lilongwe to Pemba

  • Posts: 5165

Hi

there is a train from Harare to Mutare. Good place to stay in Mutare is Ann Bruce's guesthouse 99 4th St. You will need to take a short taxi ride from the train (or bus) station. Contact here for good advice: 263 (0) 20 63-569. Tell her that Mike Slater from mozguide sent you!

Quote extracted from: risetothesamesun.blogspot.com/

" had first felt this way a couple days ago, after leaving my two travel companions in Mozambique. Driving through the mountains on the way to the Zimbabwe border, I realized that there was no one within thousands of miles who knew me. I felt incredibly light and free.
I landed in Ann Bruce’s house in Mutare, a pleasant although industrial city that is the third largest in Zimbabwe. I knew Ann without knowing her because she is everyone’s flighty grandmother who talks too much and fills her days with bridge games, glasses of wine, and loads of gossip. She is straight out of a book or a TV show, playing the exact role she wishes.

She stopped me in the hallway and in a hushed whisper she spoke chidingly of another guest who had arrived without shoes. “I told him he could get a worm,” she widened her eyes knowingly. “I once knew a boy who had to have his foot cut off.” I nodded vigorously in agreement and was quietly amused. I had actually seen the guy at the border crossing, looked down at his bare feet in disbelief and wondered whether his shoes were stolen.

Later at Ann’s, when I examined his face, I saw that his eyes were sunken and pre-aged, life was draining from them as if he’d tried all the drugs on the market to stop hating the world. He told me he is volunteering at an orphanage, and I had the impression it was an attempt to work off rich man’s guilt, defying his white South African parents by catering to poor blacks in Mozambique. I thought about asking him about the shoes, but it was probably better that I didn’t, since I’d already decided to berate his answer if it was anything other than theft or a medical condition.

I settled well into Zimbabwe the first few days. The modern infrastructure, the English language and the U.S. dollar have eased the burdens of travel. After Mozambique, I am pleased to have regained the powers of language and effortless math -- the comfort of familiarity.

What is uncomfortable, however, is the racial segregation. At Anne’s, and now in Bvumba, it is as if I’ve been transported through time, back to the American south in the early 1900’s. I am reminded of a book I read a few years ago called ‘The Help.’ All the staff – caretakers, maids, and cooks are all black and the bosses are white. They live intimately yet separately, dancing rigidly among and around each other but never together.

Overlooking the view, I feel ridiculously lucky to have this life. I wonder if I might wake up to find an office job waiting or a kid crying. And I am filled with fear that one day I might settle for less than this. I know it will end, that this feeling will end, but right now I have the sounds of the birds, a cool breeze that’s pulling apart clouds like wisps of cotton candy, and the peaks and valleys of the world."


From Beira to Pemba there are buses that go Beira - Nampula, overnight then Nampula - Pemba. (some go Beira - Quelimane then overnight). You should be able to do Beira - Pemba in two days as the roads are now a lot better north of Mocuba than they use to be, even though Inchope - Gorongosa (town) - Caia is now becoming terrible potholes in places."

Boa viagem

and let us all know how you go

please

Mike

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torres replied the topic: Re: Lilongwe to Pemba

  • Posts: 16

Hi, thanks again, i Like the route Harare to Mature by train and then Mature to Beira. If I ll depart from Harare to Mature on May 2 , stay one night there and will take a Bus to Beira on May 3 , if possible arrive to Beira before May 5 ?
Respect Ann Bruce guesthouse, do you have en email to make a reservation ?

thank you

Elbio

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mozman replied the topic: Re: Lilongwe to Pemba

  • Posts: 5165

Hi Elbio

I have Ann Bruce's email address but I don't want to put it out to the public so will email it you direct.

Mike

#9214

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torres replied the topic: Re: Lilongwe to Pemba

  • Posts: 16

Hi Mike, we decided make the route by bus because flights are very expensive (for example Beira to Pemba u$s 300) So we ll try the route Lilongwe - Blantyre - Mulanje - Mocuba - Nampula - Pemba- My questions are: there is a direct Bus Mulanje to Nampula or I ll take 2 buses?
Its posible this itineray ?

May 3 Lilongwe - Blantyre - Mulanje
May 4 Mulanje - Mocuba - Nampula
May 5 Nampula - Pemba

thanks

#9264

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mozman replied the topic: Re: Lilongwe to Pemba

  • Posts: 5165

Hi

yes this is the route that I would recommend. It is a bit optimistic to try Lilongwe - Mocuba in a one day, but it may be possible if you get to the Mulanje / Milange border no later than 1300. So yest, Lilongwe to Mulanje is quite easy in a day. From the Malawi border post to the Mozambique border post is 2km on a bicycle taxi, then another 1km to where transport leaves from.

Milange to Mocuba usually takes 3 to 5 hours (transport and road conditions depending) and has some roadworks and there are no regular buses on this route as it is quite rough and can become flooded during heavy rain. If you cross to Milange in the afternoon, uou would have to hope for a truck or pick-up going Milange to Mocuba, but these usually depart in the morning.

Milange to Nampula in a day really depends on how early you get to Mocuba, but there is a lot more traffic going Mocuba to Nampula so this should be OK.

Nampula to Pemba takes about 3 - 4 hrs so you should be there by midday.

Search this forum for Milange, Mocuba and Nampula for accommodation options and lots of other useful info.

And please let us all know how your trip goes.

Mike

#9265

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