Kilambo - Namoto

Tankgirl created the topic: Kilambo - Namoto

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Hi Mike
I have asked this before (lonely planet), but thought maybe I wasn't clear enough. I realise things in Africa are never constant. There is so much conflicting information. Being blonde (even though its bottle blonde) doesnt help.
How likely is it that I can do the Northern border crossing? (rain, time of year, female?, and the 25km walk with lions and elephant!)
I hold a South African passport- do I need to go any where special to get stamped? Do I need to pay for a visa (Moz High Commision in London said I didn't need a visa)
I work in the marine industry- and can get hold of a life raft, should I bring it? A life jacket is so much more compact.... :0)

Thanks

P.S.: I have signed up for the exclusive Pollonium 235 membership, you should have my credit card details.

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mozman replied the topic: Kilambo - Namoto

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It is only the beginning or the rains in Tanzania (it has been raining off and in Mtwara), so the roads should not yet be an issue. If you have a tent (a tent is essential in this part of the world) and can wait perhaps a day (there should be transport every day from Namoto to Mocimboa da Praia), you will not have to walk to Quionga but will have to walk 3km from Singa where the ferry beaches to Namoto where there is a formal border post.

The good news is that South Africans no longer need visas to get into Mozambique but you may have to pay approx US$5 border tax (taxa da fronteira). Make sure that you get the full 30 days stamped into your passport. Namoto is really just a collection of huts in a beautiful riverine forest and try to change some shillings or dollars in meticais (look out for the 'old' mets that are in thousands as they are no long valid) at Kilambo so you can buy a beer or cooldrink and some food in Namoto if you have to overnight there.

I think that Namoto to Mocimboa da Praia should cost around Mt250 (US$10) but you could pay up to double that. In Mocimboa da Praia (quite a bit of theft here) I would stay in Pensao Leeta but there is also 'Chez Natalie' which overlooks a stunning estuary but is about US$40 pp - email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

The Marine Industry, OK just bring some of those emergency rations they keep in the Life Boats. Or at least a few packets of peanuts.

Then get down to Pangane and look around you.

Mike

Go for it

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mozman replied the topic: Kilambo - Namoto

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Here's a sneak preview of the "Pemba to the Rovuma and Lago Niassa" section for the "Take mozguide with you" PDF guides:
IS THE FERRY AT THE ROVUMA (RUVUMA) MOUTH OPERATING?
OK, OK you don’t have to shout!!! I first crossed into Tanzania on this little barge (capacity 12 tonne – two, perhaps three small 4x4’s) in 2001. It was June and we got lost in Quionga (S 10°35,411´ E 40°30,156´) before sleeping at the Namoto border post (S 10°34,121´ E 40° 22,468) and driving the following day to the river about 3km further on where we found the batelhão firmly beached on the north bank (Tanzania). Taking a little boat across we asked whether the ferry would run that day and were told that Captain Philip Mtupa (his father runs the Tinga-Tinga guesthouse in Lindi) was in Mtwara but that he would be back later when the tide was in. Philip’s Mtwara, Tanzania number is: + 255 - 232 333 911. Sure enough right on high tide the boat slid into the current and shouldered its way upstream to the Mozambique side and within twenty minutes we were on our way to Kilambo – the Tanzanian border town. And no we didn’t pay the ferryman until he got us to that ‘other side’. If you are the only vehicle using the ferry the standard charge is US$100, but this can be bargained down or even better, shared, if there are more vehicles doing the crossing.

NOTE THAT THE COMPULSORY MOZAMBIQUE 3RD PARTY VEHICLE INSURANCE (SEGUROS) IS NOT ISSUED AT NAMOTO, AND IF ASKED TO PRODUCE THIS BY THE TRANSIT POLICE, INDICATE THAT YOU ARE GOING TO BUY IT AT THE FIRST OPPORTUNITY IN PEMBA. EMOSE (EMPRESA MOÇAMBICANA DE SEGUROS) IS LOCATED ON AVENIDA EDUARDO MONDLANE (PEMBA’S MAIN ROAD) TEL: + 258 – (272) 20437.

Make sure that you do get it in Pemba from Emose or any other agent as after this the Police will not let you get away without a fine.

So that was then but what about tomorrow, or next week, or whenever you may happen to be planning on arriving? Well officially the ferry is supposed to run all year round BUT, in the dry season or when the Rovuma level is low, it can only operate at HIGH tide and then often only at SPRING high tides, and almost never at neap tides. Also as not many local vehicles actually cross here (most transport takes you to either side of the river and then you must cross and find a lift on the other bank), naturally Philip the ferry Captain often absconds home to Mtwara from where he must be summoned either from his home (S 10°15,613´ E 40°10,262) - take a dalla-dalla taxi if coming from Moz) or enquire by phone: Tel: Philip in Mtwara, Tanzania: + 255 - 232 333911. If coming from the south, remember to phone Philip from Mocímboa da Praia where there are public phones and cell phone signal (MCel only).

John will sometimes only come if he thinks the water is right for a crossing or if someone he knows wants to get a truck over to or back from Mozambique. Note too that access for vehicles and embarking/disembarking on the Mozambique side can become very interesting during rain due to the slimy black cotton soils that become something like the consistency of Brent Light Crude when wet.

And this from the mozguide forum: “I have crossed the Rovuma half a dozen times, 3 by dugout and 3 on the ferry. There is quite a lot of misinformation regarding the ferry, especially with regard to its reliability. Certainly there are times when the Captain is at home in Mtwara, and somebody has to be sent by bicycle to Kilambo to phone him (if coming from Tanz in a car take this somebody yourself), but this is usually at times when the ferry cannot run due to the water being shallow.

The bottom line is that the ferry does run throughout the year, but NOT every day. If thinking of the ferry, plan your arrival for high tide and even better, spring tide, and daylight hours only! Avoid neap tides and of course low tide. During the rains, so long as the Rovuma is not flooding, but is full, the ferry can run more regularly, but then the acce

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Tankgirl replied the topic: Kilambo - Namoto

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Thanks, again.
Copied all that and printed. Have been unable to download the PDF stuff from work and home (will try at LHR)computers.

Cheers

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